During and after the Civil War, numerous settlers flocked to the Old West, looking for a new way of life.
Today, Beulah is a haven for summer visitors, who are looking for a quiet place to relax or spend time hiking, fishing or picnicking.
But in the beginning, it was a place to escape from the terrors of the Civil War.
Over the years, it has been rumored that it was the confederates who settled the Beulah Valley. Nevertheless, according to Colorado Division of the Sons of the Confederate, “Confederate Gen. Henry Sibley organized his Army of New Mexico to invade New Mexico (in 1861 in order to open a way to the Pacific). Capt. George Madison was commissioned by Gen. Sibley to venture into Colorado with a two-fold mission: disrupt federal mail and communication lines, help organize Confederate recruitment in Colorado.”
The archives added that it was rumored that many of the Southern sympathizers, who formed a Southern Military Regiment, were sent to the Pikes Peak area before hiding in Mace’s Hole under the command of Col. John Heffinger, who recruited and prepared them for battle. It was Gen Sibley’s goal to capture New Mexico in order to “open a path to the Pacific” and to take the gold mines in Colorado to help the South in the war effort.
In early 1862, Capt. Madison and his men captured the mail on its way to Fort Garland. Under Col. Heffinger’s command, the unit planned a raid on the fort, but when Federal soldiers learned of the encampment at Mace’s Hole, it broke up the regiment while many of the Confederates were gone.
“The Federals took those who remained in camp that day prisoner,” Colorado Division of the Sons of the Confederate said. “Following this, Col. Heffinger, his officers, including Capt. Madison and his men, were all ordered to join Sibley in New Mexico,” thus ending the Confederate influence in the valley, the history said.
During this time, John Jacob Sease brought several members of his family to Pueblo, where they temporarily lived along the lower St. Charles River in 1863. Later, he and his family moved to a dugout, which was rumored to have been built by Juan Mace and his sons in Mace’s Hole or what is now known as Beulah. Along the way, the family built a log house by the springs in Sellers pasture, according to the book titled, “From Mace’s Hole, The Way It Was, To Beulah, The Way It Is,” published by The Beulah Historical Society.
Upon settling in Mace’s Hole, Sease laid out the first irrigation ditch to water his fields. A year later, he and John Boggs engineered another irrigation ditch, which is still in use today. In 1874, Sease returned to Missouri, where he married Narissa “Nora” Sprinkle and brought her back to the valley, accompanied by her sister Susanna, who later married Frank Schuneman. His first son, John Joseph, by an earlier marriage, homesteaded on lower North Creek, where he built a log home that is still standing, the book added.
Other pioneers included Boggs, who was lured to the frontier in 1860 to Denver, where he worked in the fields of law, business and public service for seven years. At one point, he helped prepare the territory for statehood then moved to Pueblo, where he practiced law to some extent. He also volunteered with the Colorado Volunteers to chase marauding Indians. During this time with the group, Boggs first discovered the Beulah valley, which caught his imagination. Because there were other lawyers already established in Pueblo, Boggs purchased and sold livestock, spending a winter on Peter K. Dotson’s ranch, where he protected his livestock and was able to feed and water them. He and his four sons moved to Mace’s Hole in 1867 and flourished for more than 40 years, improving the land, raising good crops, building roads and working to contribute to the community. One of the sons became the first postmaster while another delivered the mail.
As the sawmill industry boomed, it grew toward the north and that section developed into a separate community, the book said. The settlers also grew crops to sell to residents of Mace’s Hole. During this time, the Red Creek Springs became as well known as Manitou Springs. As the community continued to flourish, the North Creek Road was improved at Beulah Hill, which brought another way into the valley from Canon City.
Discovered by Robert Fisher, Beulah lies in a valley between the Wet Mountains and an extension of the southern Rocky Mountains province. Fisher, who was employed much of the time by the Bent Brothers and Ceran Vrain, also worked as an independent trapper, trader and hunter. He often visited the valley during the 1830s and 1840s.
“Fisher was one of the earliest trappers to become thoroughly familiar with the area between the Arkansas River and the New Mexican settlements,” said the book. “The beautiful little meadow where the middle fork of the St. Charles River tumbles down out of the Wet Mountains was originally known as Fisher’s Hole and referred to as ‘Fisher’s favorite valley.'”
In the 1850s, Juan Mace arrived in the valley, attaching his name to the area in 1851.
“From the time of the pioneer settlers, the romantic history of the Beulah area revolved around the thrilling tradition of Juan Mace and his band of followers,” the book continued.
Although there is some truth of the saga revolving around Mace, there is no documentation to verify his existence until a local newspaper dated Feb. 6, 1877 referred to him in an article, saying “Mace made this his hiding place for his stock he stole from the wagon trains and herders on the prairie,” said the newspaper. “There was but one pass into the valley and that a difficult one. Other passes entered the valley from parks from farther back and (were) more difficult to enter and exit. Mace considered himself and his booty safe when once they came through the eastern pass.”
When settlers pursued Mace and his band of outlaws, they could not find them because Mace used Signal Mountain as a lookout. Once they saw their pursuers, they disappeared into the mountains.
“They don’t know what happened to him,” Gardiner said. “He’s a mystery.”
According to the book, he may have been shot on the plains, on a rocky promontory or near his cabin in the valley. He may have perished in the Fort Pueblo Massacre or hanged from a cottonwood tree in the valley. He also may have escaped.
In 1876, Mace’s Hole was changed to Beulah by a vote of the people the same year Colorado became a state.
“They felt (Mace’s Hole) didn’t really reflect the area of such promise,” said member Ona Marie Amman. “It deserved a more fitting name and Beulah won out over three other names.”
Along the way, Col. C.N. Sellers created Lake Tucita, which was popular with boaters and picnickers. It set where the Beulah Mercantile Store is currently located.
“We’re not sure how long it lasted,” Gardiner said.
Currently populated by 1,000 full time residents and numerous summer visitors, Beulah is located 26 miles west of Pueblo on Colo. 78, sporting two restaurants, Beulah Inn and Songbird, a gas station with a gift store and convenience store, several churches, a winery, a school for kindergarten through eighth grade classes and the Pueblo Mountain Park.
“It’s been kind of a quiet little place,” Gardiner said.
Acoustic heartbreak in the Colorado San Juans with John Statz
Songs about heartbreak should resinate. And with John Statz they do. They’re equally soft and striking.
His new full-length album “Darkness on the San Juans,” available May 11, takes an acoustic turn from his other recent work. Then, he had full bands in studios. With this project, he gathered a few friends in his living room to record.
Like heartbreak itself, the album is more personal, more raw and more intimate. The Wisconsin native who now calls Denver home said he hasn’t done something quite as stripped down in a while, and when it came to get back into songwriting after the release of his last album last summer, there was also a reason to write.
It was the aftermath of a breakup.
“We retrace our steps. We look at what we thought we knew. We ultimately discover and face the truth under the stories we told ourselves along the way,” he says of the album.
In addition to the post-love songs, the album features a few songs Statz previously worked on but didn’t have a place on an album, and songs that are meant to be more acoustic. “Presidential Valet” is the story of Armistead, President John Tyler’s valet, or slave, who died alongside seven others in an explosion after Tyler and members of cabinet were watching the firing of the “peacemaker” in 1844.
So, this album is about heartbreak. Did that change how you wrote or approached the album at all?
Yeah. It just kind of comes out more — I don’t know — when you’re writing about heartbreak it’s just seems like the easiest type of writing. It’s just pouring out of you. You don’t have to come up with a concept or a story or any of that.
In the bio you released ahead of this album, it references a pretty famous Ernest Hemingway quotation: “Write hard and clear about what hurts.” Maybe as a writer I hear about this all of the time, but there’s definitely a writing style associated with Hemingway — to write very concise and clear. Did you take any of that with you into the songwriting or was it all about the emotion?
You know, it was the emotion part. I didn’t think about that, but the songs are fairly concise and short. So I appreciate that might also be relevant there even though I didn’t intend that.
The title of this album is “Darkness on the San Juans.” Explain that a little bit.
It’s a line in the song “Highways.” Geographical references are all over my songwriting. On every album I’ve ever written. So it’s a song about driving places with someone and either ending up back at those places later and having other memories being their previously. The San Juans was one of those locations that was important.
Why do you think you end up writing about places so much?
I mean, an obvious answer is that I spend a lot of time driving around to gigs, and I’ve been a lot of places because of that. And just for fun. I love roadtripping around Colorado, and camping and that sort of thing. So it’s not a planned thing. I’m living and breathing this lifestyle from A to B to C and that infiltrates the writing. But also, it’s a convenient rhyming scheme. Sometimes it can be hard to find a word, but there’s usually a city that will fill in.
How long did it take you to finish this album, being that the concept is fairly raw?
It all happened pretty fast. The two non-heartbreak songs, “Presidential Valet” and “Old Men Drinking Seagrem’s,” were older. They’re social commentary tunes. But I just hadn’t recorded them to yet and I was waiting for an acoustic album to do that. I started writing in the summer. I decided in December to record them. I called my friend Nate, flew him out in January. And we recorded it in three days in my living room.
Had you recorded like that before?
It’s been a while, but yeah. My first couple albums that I made when I lived in Madison, Wisconsin, were like that: recorded at home and more stripped down with the production and just making use of what we had. The last three albums were full bands or went to a really professional studio. This is how I made records way back.
Why did you decide to do it this way?
The songs mostly had an acoustic feel, and I sing in my living room a lot. I have this open, high ceiling. So I play my guitar and sing in my living room a lot. I think it sounds cool in there. I thought we could make a cool recording there. I liked the idea of making this intimate album in my home. It was a comfortable, cozy way to make an album.
So everything about this album seems more intimate that what you’ve done in the last few years.
Yeah. Definitely. Everything is. There’s only four musicians on this album, and one of those is my roommate who did knee slaps.
I also noticed on the album credits was an oatmeal container.
So I bought a plastic egg shaker because I thought I maybe wanted to some percussion. But it just didn’t sound that cool. I was like, well we have oatmeal around the house. There wasn’t much left in one container and so we shook it and it was a way better shaker sound, you know?
The inspiration for these songs were the feelings that linger after a break-up. Was there a cut-off point there since emotions always evolve, especially in these instances?
It’s a process. A relationship ends and we all go through the phases. Months go by and you change how you feel. The me that wrote those songs and recorded them months back is a different person. I’ve evolved in the process.
Did you have to simmer to write these songs or was it immediate?
I wrote the first song like a month after. I was trying to write again because I write in cycles. I had just put out an album at the beginning of last summer and when I’m in album release mode I’m not writing as much. But when that’s over I want to write. This time I wanted to write again and I had a fresh reason. I find it a little uncontrollable. I’ve never not written about any breakup I’ve ever had. It’s just part of the territory of being writer. I haven’t written anymore since I wrote those. I’m in album-release mode. I think I decided I’m done with these songs on this album. That’s part of the reason why I wanted to get it out. This part of my life is completed and now I will write a bunch of songs about U.S. presidents or something like that.
I noticed on your social media you like presidential biographies.
Yeah, I do. My friend Jeffrey Foucault is a songwriter and he gave me a LBJ biography. I really liked it, so I thought I’d give George Washington a try and I just kept going.
How many are you up to?
I’m almost done with Grant, so 18.
So far do you have a favorite based off of biographies?
Grant has been really interesting. Lincoln was fascinating. Martin Van Buren. Great sideburns.
Back to the album. Do you think the listener can hear an evolution throughout the album?
Yeah, those songs were written at different times, so probably. I’d say it’s a snapshot of what somebody goes through, or at least what I went through. But I think what most of us go through after a breakup.I just think most people have been through it so I hope they can identify.
I just think most people have been through it so I hope they can identify.
You can purchase Darkness in the San Juans at johnstatz.com.
The Last Watchman: The lost story of Colorado’s worst train wreck
The only reminder of one of the worst train wrecks in Colorado history is a weathered post with a small white sign that stands sentinel at the edge of an unassuming arroyo. It is cracked, and wrapped in barbed wire so you must stand very close to make out the fading words. “This historical marker is a tribute to author-historian Dow Helmers (1906-1976), author of THE TRAGEDY AT EDEN the story of Colorado’s most disastrous train wreck… ’” it begins.
In 1904, dirt roads may have been the main mode of travel, but they made going long distances impractical and often unpleasant, so the idea that a train could smoothly and quickly get you to your destination seemed an attractive choice for the regular traveler to take advantage of the special weekend rates.
Nothing seemed out of the ordinary on that Sunday the 7th of August in 1904. A few scattered rain showers and even cloudbursts were often expected that time of year. The passenger train from Denver to Pueblo was running on schedule and ticket holders were gathering on the platform for their return trip home from their weekend jaunts.
The train was the No. 12 that had just made the trip from St. Louis to Pueblo where it picked up the dining car from the last southbound train and headed to Denver where it would be stocked, cleaned and staffed in preparation for the trip to Pueblo. Now that it would be heading south, it was redubbed the No. 11.
The No. 11 had seven cars including the engine. There was also a baggage car, a coach car, a chair car, two Pullman sleepers and the dining car. The well-regarded Henry Hinman would be the Engineer and his fireman would be David Mayfield. Both men were from Denver.
Passengers boarded and the No. 11 left the Denver station for its date with destiny on time at 5pm. It was in Colorado Springs that Hinman was given a bulletin order to use caution and watch for standing water. At least 50 more passengers also boarded. Many were headed for Pueblo but there were others that would be continuing on to further destinations.
Leaving the station about 5 minutes after the scheduled departure, Hinman carefully followed his orders and would eventually be running at least 15 minutes late. They were due in Pueblo at 8:15pm but were crossing Bridge 110-B over Hogan’s Gulch at almost 8:20pm at no more than 20 miles per hour.
The engine swayed to the sound of cracking timbers as Hinman eased the throttle forward hoping to quickly get to solid ground. The front had just reached the bank when it suddenly stopped, lurched backwards and began to slide into the churning waters below.
A panicked Mayfield managed to jump clear of the falling engine but after being struck by a timber from the bridge, he was washed downstream just far enough that when he crawled ashore, he was still able to see the train’s headlight shining into the sky. After searching and yelling for Hinman, to no avail, he made his way to the Eden Station for help.
Passengers that got out to investigate were immediately stunned to find that the engine, baggage, coach (smoker), and chair cars were gone. The bridge wasn’t simply empty as it was immediately apparent that it had also met the same fate. It was only the automatic air brakes that had kept the remaining cars from following suit.
Being the heaviest, the engine sank like a stone but the other three missing cars and their inhabitants tumbled in the rushing waters towards Fountain Creek. The angry waters smashed through glass and took lives quickly as they violently twisted the cars in an ultimate test of their very structure.
It was in this act of destruction that a few lucky survivors managed to find their escape. John Killin had to hold his breath as the car filled with water and it rolled with the current. He had just broken a window when the car collided with something and a large piece of the roof tore away.
Using the new exit, he was able to get out of the car and attempt a swim to shore. He was struck by a railroad tie and grabbed it for use as a floatation device. Falling from it a few times, he managed to find it again until he reached water shallow enough to wade to shore. Later, he would display the tie in his Pueblo store as he credited it to saving his life.
Henry Gilbert and Tony Fisher also managed to navigate their escape and the treacherous waters to find their way to shore where they met and immediately received medical attention. Rescue efforts started immediately as the water had already begun to recede and the first relief train took the survivors and the passengers from the remaining section of the train to Pueblo.
Men with lanterns rushed to try to find any other survivors. They lit fires along the shore for heat and light, but the searchers would have to wait for dawn before any real progress was made. Their rescue mission quickly became one of recovery and while they found most, they didn’t find everyone.
Word spread quickly that there had been an accident and it drew crowds wanting to help in the rescue efforts. It also brought looters that were willing to hunt for any bodies but only to relieve them of anything that they might be carrying of value. The macabre also arrived to spread blankets to picnic nearby as they watched the rescuers like they were attending a theater production.
The engine proved to be harder to recover than had been anticipated. The crane from Pueblo couldn’t handle the weight so a replacement from Salida had to be retrieved and that would take a little time. The bents from the new bridge were put in place while the engine still remained engulfed in the mud below.
The final death count had been 96. It would have been 97 if they had included Tony Fisher who survived the wreck but would die almost a month later from tetanus on September 1st from injuries related to the crash and his time in the water. The bridge was in place in time for the passenger train to run on schedule the next day.
At least 80 square miles of land used to drain through that arroyo but a better understanding of engineering and drainage improvements has changed that. Now water rarely flows through the dry ditch that was Hogan’s Gulch and when the sign was erected it wasn’t even called that anymore. It had been changed to Porter’s Draw as arroyos are usually named for the landowner.
Aside from what is left of the sign, there are no visible remnants of that fateful night. Even the replacement bridge has given way to the newer stronger, sleeker version to the east. The Eden train station has been moved and was used as a personal residence for a bit. Only the sign remains, but local lore claims that on cloudy nights, the lights from long gone lanterns bob in the distance along the banks searching for the lost to at last bring them home.
Soul mates: An interview with Colorado’s in/Planes
I feel the need to take a quick second to clear something up—I watched the band in/PLANES get married. Not for this article, mind you; the ceremony was years ago. I have been friends with musical and otherwise soulmates Inaiah Lujan and Desirae Garcia for over a decade at this point (due in no small part I’m sure to our mutual enthusiasm and passion for local music). As a result, I have had the opportunity to bear witness as not only their music but also relationship has burst and bloomed into multiple amazing endeavors. Whether it was their passionate and spirited take on Dustbowl-era Americana as members of folk revivalists the Haunted Windchimes or the wonderfully intimate lo-fi solo albums the both of them have released over the years, these two have a continually impressive musical output and a charm that I have always been excited to delve into. Hell, they even played in my basement once upon a time.
But none of them have struck me quite the same way as in/PLANES has. “Radio Wave,” their first full-length offering via Denver indie record label GROUPHUG, is something altogether different; something wondrously unique. It could be their voices. THOSE voices—honeyed and harmonious—especially whilst entwined in the duets that frequent the songs of in/PLANES. It could be the melodies they create—a riding-high blend of 50’s sha-la-la doo-wop, 60’s sunshine pop and indie-birthed soul—that feels distinctly pop without the trappings of sounding glossy or over-produced. Where tons of modern indie acts are ready to make a loud racket, in/PLANES instead opts to let the grooves play out sparsely and intimately, with inviting musicianship and vocal performances that envelop the space surrounding them. Whether live in concert or in the car, the music of in/PLANES holds on tightly and never lets go.
PULP: It’s weird trying to formally interview you guys; being friends makes it weird to ask you questions in a regular way.
Inaiah Lujan (guitar/vocals): That’s okay.
Desirae Garcia (bass guitar/vocals): We’ll be semi-formal.
IL: Business casual. (laughs)
I did do some research though, and I realized that in/PLANES has been around for longer than I remembered. But this new album is your first full length?
IL: Yeah. This is our first formal release that isn’t an EP. And also first physical release. There is some intention with that. You know that we are champions of analog stuff; Cassette tapes are my first love; I grew up making mixtapes. And CD’s have always felt pointless to me, but for so long we played the game because you used to HAVE to have CD’s on the merch table. But this band has been pretty vocal about our disdain for CD’s; “Radio Wave” is only going to be available on cassette. You’ll get a digital download with purchase of the tape.
Speaking of which, what does the name “Radio Wave” mean in regard to the band?
DG: It’s a line from the song “Why Didn’t You,” a song that is actually not on the record. (laughs). But it’s the very first in/PLANES song we ever wrote. We wrote that song, and it felt like it was part of a totally different project; it felt different than anything we were doing. So maybe it’s a nod to the beginning of the project. We like to think of the song as kind of a breadcrumb to where we are at now.
IL: The benefit of this band is getting to take our time with things; to be more intentional. So now we have been releasing stuff retroactively. The EP we released just last month is stuff we had recorded from our apartment; “Radio Wave” is stuff we put together with Adam Hawkins from Right Heel Music and our drummer Carl Sorensen, and we already have another album in the works.
For me, it also has dual meaning; in/PLANES seems to always create this kind of duality. “Radio Wave” also musically reminds me of when people were only listening to the radio. It kind of plays to idea of this vintage-pop genre we’re kind of going with.
DG: That’s also the music that this record is really inspired by.
IL: The EP feels like kind of a sampler or mixtape for what we’re all about, but this full length is more focused; a little more of that classic pop sound. It’s a fitting title for sure.
DG: Also it’s 1,000,000% love songs; which is bad and good. (laughs)
When you wrote “Why Didn’t You,” did it feel like a song intentionally for a new project?
IL: I think it just presented itself that way; I had been toying around with some chords, and I had been trying to write a song and I didn’t know where to start with melody or lyrics, so I had Desi help me out and it came together really quickly.
In doing so, we realized that we hadn’t collaborated in that way with just the two of us since the beginning of the Haunted Windchimes. At that point, the ‘Chimes had already become four contributing songwriters and had developed a strong formula; in that way it felt like not exactly a departure, but something new that we could try and explore on our own.
DG: It came out really naturally and organically. And it didn’t fit anywhere, either with the ‘Chimes songs or solo songs.
Do you feel like fans of the ‘Chimes and your solo efforts are following you down this path?
IL: I think so. We are all taking a break with the ‘Chimes for now, but we haven’t officially announced that to our fans, so sometimes we’ll get messages asking where we’ve been and why haven’t they heard any news about the band. So maybe some people are a little resistant to it. I don’t know.
DG: It sounds different enough so that some people aren’t going to be into it, which is okay. The other day, someone left a comment on the Windchimes Facebook page asking about us, and another person commented back saying “you should check out in/PLANES and (Haunted Windchimes member Mike Clark’s) the River Arkansas” and the first person commented back “We just like ‘Chimes’ style music,” which is okay! You don’t have to follow us everywhere.
IL: The great thing about being an artist and a musician is the ability to shift gears and follow rabbits down different holes. And with in/PLANES, we’re already trying to get out of our own box and comfort zone. But the common thread that ties it all is that we write all of the songs together, and we wear our influences on our sleeves.
So if you had to explain what you think in/PLANES sounds like, what would you say?
DG: That is my least favorite question, because it’s so hard to explain. The shortcut i usually go for is throwback, vintage pop with some rock tendencies. And if they’re listening after that, then I’ll just keep talking until they walk away, because it’s so difficult to answer.
But like to go with vintage-pop, because if someone says rock & roll, I don’t feel attached to that. We write pop music; all the formulas, the lack of formulas…
IL: It does feel like something you would turn on the radio and hear in the 50’ or 60’s to me, but our modern influences still sneak in; we’re both big fans of hip-hop and country music, and it all gets in one way or another.
DG: Digital drums are where we lose a lot of people. They’re like “WHAT? Is that a digital drum?” And I’m like, “Yup, it is.” (laughs) It’s those 808 beats.
The electronics are really subtle in your songs though.
IL: I think so too. I think we just want to be able to write a song without putting it in a box, you know? But at the same time, making sure to trim all of the fat; which may be contradictory.
We’re not trying to write complex songs. I don’t like to have any rules, but I do like to set limitations on myself; almost like limiting your color pallette if you’re a painter.
DG: Not to be pigeonholed, but also maintain some cohesion. Present yourself in a way people can understand. I don’t like to tell people what genre of music we are, but it is helpful for us; it makes us more focused.
IL: Knowing where the line or limitation is and knowing how far we can push it over causes a tension we like to work under. It’s good tension.
DG: You can’t put me in a box—only I can put me in a box!
“Radio Wave” from in/PLANES is out 5/3 on cassette via GROUPHUG records, with a slew of release shows and a digital release to come soon thereafter. For full dates and info, head to inPlanes.com