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Weekend Getaway: The Santa Fean



There’s something about The Land of Enchantment and a closeness to Colorado that makes New Mexico one of those amazing weekend getaways—that is, one that is both easily accessible and unlike any other place in the world. That’s why one weekend, my friends and I decided on a last-minute weekend trip to New Mexico—specifically, Santa Fe, with a taste of Albuquerque and Taos, too.

I was born in Albuquerque, New Mexico, but I haven’t been back in years. I vaguely remembered the Sandia Mountains as they framed the city of Albuquerque—how each sunset made them purple in the evening. The eastern point of the city boasted views of the golden sun setting in the west, hitting mountain silhouettes in a vibrant, magical way. I remembered amazing summers of camping in those mountains—of building forts and wading across streams. I vaguely remembered the streets of Santa Fe, lined with beautiful shops and weekend art festivals—flowing with cultural diversity of Native American, Spanish, and Southwestern art. And the food—unlike anything I’d ever tasted of all the places I’ve called home. But it was all sort of a dream, really—something fairy-like in the past—because I had thoroughly enjoyed my childhood immersed in New Mexico before leaving at the age of 11.

I was curious to see the area as an adult. So two friends and I made the 5-hour drive on a Friday night after work — the kind of quick weekend trip one can take to New Mexico in this part of the state.

Our goal was to make it to Raton, N.M.  before stopping for dinner.

In Raton, we were excited to have real New Mexican food, so we stopped at the Casa Lemus Inn & Restaurant. Contrary to misconceptions, New Mexican food is not Tex-Mex, nor is it Mexican. New Mexico has its own unique combination of Spanish, Pueblo Native American, and Cowboy Chuckwagon influences. In other words: this isn’t quite your typical fair. It has its own unique flavors that are hard to replicate anywhere else—believe me, I’ve looked—making it truly worth investigating for any foodie.

Our waiter that evening heard that one of my friends had never been to New Mexico. She told us to order meals “Christmas style,” referring to the colors of the red and green chile that New Mexico is famous for. And if we really wanted to be authentic, we should ask for two over easy eggs on top of our entrees.

After getting a taste of what was in store for the rest of the trip it was time to return to I-25, conversation among friends and the clarity of the New Mexican night sky.

My friends were blown away at the clarity of the stars as we watched the sunset fade into the horizon. You haven’t really seen stars until you’re out in the wildernesses of the desert with no electric lights around. As a child, I remember gazing into those stars quite often, feeling the awe and wonder of knowing how small you really are amongst the vast cosmos.

Having stumbled into Albuquerque at around 11:30pm, we hopped into our homebase for the weekend at a friend’s house—we weren’t going to pass up a free place to stay. And by the morning, we were ready for the wonderfully unique Santa Fe—which was the main focus of our trip.

Santa Fe is known as an art mecca, with a vibrant arts community that boasts over 250 galleries—which is a huge feat for a place that only has about 80,000 people living in it. Santa Fe attracts visitors each year with its art festivals, which have consistently been voted as some of the top in the nation. To many who haven’t been before, being in downtown Santa Fe almost feels as if you’re in another part of the world. Everything is made from adobe, which is a really uncommon type of architecture in certain places in America. There’s such a strong essence of culture displayed within the artwork—from Kokopelli, (a Native American deity god who dances with a flute), to the iconic Zia sun symbol that’s found everywhere, including the New Mexican state flag.

Like any good weekender, the plan isn’t as much fun as the discovery and our plan had us start with exploring the Saint Francis Cathedral, which is over one hundred years old and was heavily influenced by French architecture. We attempted to visit Loretto Chapel’s famous staircase, and then decided against it because we didn’t want to pay an entry fee of $3. (We’re cheapskates, what can we say?) Instead, we used that $3 for coffee, discovering the Collected Works Bookstore & Coffeehouse, which frequently hosts live music. There, we were drawn under the spell of a clarinetist and guitarist/vocalist who sang wistful, bluesy tunes. In fact, the coffeehouse was so great, we would’ve stayed there much longer—but other adventures were calling.

As we ventured into the shops of Santa Fe, we eventually found ourselves walking through small art festivals—which are held almost every weekend, with high quality craftsmanship displayed on every corner. Cattle heads, colorful blankets, red chili decorations, artisan turquoise jewelry: These things are New Mexico.

In recent years, the patterns and styles from the Southwest have become nationally trendy, but they’ve always been here—authentically rooted to the native people and diverse cultures, whose designs are an inspiration to those high-end labels. Such an inspiration, some argue that this Southwestern cultural aesthetic has been stolen from its New Mexican roots and used by the mainstream.

For lunch, we went to The Shed—which was highly recommended to me by a local—and rewardingly scrumptious. There, we did indeed order our food “Christmas style”—Huevos Rancheros and Carne Asada with red and green chili. As we compared the red and green chili, we decided that we all liked green more—although the local Albuquerque friend (who was hosting us) was adamant that red is better. I stand firmly with the green chili crowd. Their version is savory and spicy and pretty much beyond description by the human tongue.

What we were all really excited for, though, was Meow Wolf—a 20,000 square foot permanent art installation that opened in 2016—that has already made headlines across the country over since its reveal.

I was fascinated by the story of Meow Wolf—starting out as a scrappy art collective in Santa Fe, which later convinced George R. R. Martin (author of the Game of Thrones series) to invest 3 million dollars, resulting in the purchase an old bowling alley that would become their permanent space—that is, the space that it has become today. Something special was obviously happening here, and we wanted to see it for ourselves. Our plan was to simply check it out, anticipating to only spend roughly an hour or two there—but we ended up spending a good, solid five hours at the unique space. And, in all honestly, we could’ve spent more.

Meow Wolf’s “House of Eternal Return” is an immersive, interactive story. A lived-in, 3D, fully discoverable story about a family whose house is doing strange things. It’s a combination of fantasy, sci-fi, and mystery, making it one of the most unique experiences I’ve ever had. From walking through fridges and sliding down dryers, to exploring other worlds and dimensions like a fairyland forest—it’s indescribable and unreal to say the least. Kids and adults alike love this space—and I know I felt like a kid, climbing, dipping, and diving from one bizarre area to the next. Meow Wolf’s “House of Eternal Return” has become one of the most Instagrammed places in all of New Mexico—but even with all of the pictures, it’s hard to grasp how imaginative and expansive the experience is until you see it for yourself. My experience was as expected—full of wonder and awe at the imaginative minds that came up with such an original place.

Meow Wolf was quite the experience, but we were exhausted afterwards—and really, really hangry. So we hit up a place called Maria’s for chiles rellenos, green chile, and chalupas and sopapillas.

A night in Albuquerque called and we answered with a visit to the Santa Fe Brewery’s ABQ location. But the locals had us visit the Sister Bar for their specialty cocktails such as the El Chapo with tequila and roasted jalapeños.

Imbibing well into the night Sunday was going to be a rush to fill it with things to see and stores open to shop. We didn’t plan for stores to be closed on Sunday and our hunt for Santa Fean jewelry ended with a scenic view of “Closed” signs.

But we made up for it driving through Taos with its lush scenery and expansive views. Taos is arguably one of the prettiest areas in New Mexico, with its own vibrant culture and arts scene. And not a town you can just tack on after a visit to Santa Fe. Both towns deserve their own weekend away.

One last, locally sourced, grass-fed green chili burger (which all of us ranked five-star quality) served with sweet potato fries and a milk shake—making this the perfect final stop on our New Mexican weekend adventure—and it was back to the interstate headed towards Mile High State.

New Mexico lived up to the memories of my youth, but I was able to cement a more modern image into my mind with all the amazing things that New Mexico has to offer—from the big skies and mountainous views, to the art-filled streets and cultural experiences—these things cannot be found in any other place.

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The wonderfully odd Pink Rocks of Colorado’s Paint Mines



In Eastern Colorado, just on the outer edge of the great plains is the Calhan Paint Mines, a geological oddity that’s completely out of place filled with pink rocks, hoodoos and 9,000 years of human history.

Sun, wind, erosion has turned the once clay fields of this Eastern Colorado site, into a geological spectacle. What surely was a place for early human civilization to collect clay and natural paints is now a wonderful “distraction-attraction.”

Follow along as I, your PULP360 Host, Ashley Lowe travels to the weird geological oddity known as the Paint Mines in Eastern Colorado.

Where to go:

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Tourism still booms in Cuba but Trump’s tougher stance hurting private entrepreneurs



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HAVANA (AP) — On a sweltering early summer afternoon in Miami’s Little Havana, President Donald Trump told a cheering Cuban-American crowd that he was rolling back some of Barack Obama’s opening to Cuba in order to starve the island’s military-run economy of U.S. tourism dollars and ratchet up pressure for regime change.

That doesn’t appear to be happening. Travel to Cuba is booming from dozens of countries, including the U.S. And the tourism dollars from big-spending Americans seem to be heading into Cuba’s state sector and away from private business, according to Cuban state figures, experts and private business people themselves.

The government figures show that 2017 was a record year for tourism, with 4.7 million visitors pumping more than $3 billion into the island’s otherwise struggling economy. The number of American travelers rose to 619,000, more than six times the pre-Obama level. But amid the boom — an 18 percent increase over 2016 — owners of private restaurants and bed-and-breakfasts are reporting a sharp drop-off.

“There was an explosion of tourists in the months after President Obama’s detente announcement. They were everywhere!” said Rodolfo Morales, a retired government worker who rents two rooms in his home for about $30 a night. “Since then, it’s fallen off.”

The ultimate destination of American tourism spending in Cuba seems an obscure data point, but it’s highly relevant to a decades-old goal of American foreign policy — encouraging change in Cuba’s single-party, centrally planned system. For more than 50 years, Washington sought to strangle nearly all trade with the island in hopes of spurring economic collapse. Obama changed that policy to one of promoting engagement as a way of strengthening a Cuban private sector that could grow into a middle class empowered to demand reform.

Cuba’s tourism boom began shortly after Obama and Cuban President Raul Castro announced in December 2014 that their countries would re-establish diplomatic relations and move toward normalization. U.S. cruise ships began docking in the Bay of Havana and U.S. airlines started regular flights to cities across the island. Overall tourism last year was up 56 percent over Cuba’s roughly 3 million visitors in 2014.

While the U.S. prohibits tourism to Cuba, Americans can travel here for specially designated purposes like religious activity or the vaguely defined category of “people-to-people” cultural interaction.

Obama allowed individuals to participate in “people-to-people” activities outside official tour groups. Hundreds of thousands of Americans responded by designing their own Cuban vacations without fear of government penalties. Since Cuba largely steers tour groups to government-run facilities, Americans traveling on their own became a vital market for the island’s private entrepreneurs, hotly desired for their free spending, heavy tipping and a desire to see a “real” Cuba beyond all-inclusive beach resorts and quick stops on tour buses. The surge helped travel-related businesses maintain their role as by far the most successful players in Cuba’s small but growing private sector.

Trump’s new policy re-imposed the required for “people-to-people” travel to take place only in tour groups, which depend largely on Cuban government transportation and guides.

As a result, many private business people are seeing so many fewer Americans that it feels like their numbers are dropping, even though the statistics say otherwise.

“Tourism has grown in Cuba, with the exception of American tourism,” said Nelson Lopez, a private tour guide. “But I’m sure that sometime soon they’ll be back.”

While Trump’s new rules didn’t take effect until November, their announcement in June led to an almost immediate slackening in business from individual Americans, many Cuban entrepreneurs say. The situation was worsened by Hurricane Irma striking Cuba’s northern coast in September and by a Cuban government freeze on new licenses for businesses including restaurants and bed-and-breakfasts. Cuban officials say the freeze was needed to control tax evasion, purchase of stolen state goods and other illegality in the private sector, but it’s had the effect of further restricting private-sector activity in the wake of Trump’s policy change.

Cuban state tourism officials did not respond to requests for comment.

Trump’s policy changes did not touch flights or cruise ships. Jose Luis Perello, a tourism expert at the University of Havana, said more than 541,000 cruise ship passengers visited Cuba in 2017, compared with 184,000 the previous year. Even as entrepreneurs see fewer American clients, many of those cruise passengers are coming from the United States, he said.

Yunaika Estanque, who runs a three-room bed-and-breakfast overlooking the Bay of Havana, says she has been able to weather a sharp drop in American guests because a British tour agency still sends her clients, but things still aren’t good.

“Without a doubt our best year was 2016, before the Trump presidency,” she said. “I’ve been talking with other bed-and-breakfast owners and they’re in bad shape.”

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Breckenridge: Not Just Another Ski Town



For most people, the name Breckenridge evokes the concept of a “ski town,” an area that was made up and commercialized to trap the unsuspecting out-of-town tourist or ski obsessed Coloradan into coming to enjoy the slopes during the winter. And while Breckenridge does boast an impressive ski resort of over 2,000 acres that first opened in the 1960s (and which Vail Resorts purchased in 1996), its history is richer and much more complicated than a fancy tourism trap would make it out to be. And there is so much more to do in Breckenridge than just ski.

While this may shock those whose sole purpose is skiing nonstop during the winter, Breckenridge is a historical town that has a number of other wonderful qualities and interesting things to check out. So for anyone who has a desire to venture into the mountains during the winter but doesn’t want to spend money on skiing—or dedicate their entire trip to the activity—there are also a lot of other things to do and explore in the historical mountain town of Breckenridge, Colorado.

Breckenridge: Historical Exploration

If you’re a history buff or interested in exploring one of the oldest settled in Colorado, Breckenridge truly is an area to explore. Breckenridge was actually a mining town founded during the Colorado Gold Rush in 1859—a decade or more sooner than places like Colorado Springs or Pueblo and nearer the time of the settling of Denver in 1858. As one of the oldest towns in Colorado, it has a lot of fascinating history surrounding the area. There are numerous ghost towns and old mining shafts in the region.

Breckenridge Heritage Alliance and The Summit Historical Society are both amazing resources for navigating the entire area through the eyes of a historian. Breckenridge Heritage Alliance includes museums like the home of Barney L. Ford—a runaway slave who lived in Breckenridge and became a civil rights leader—and the Edwin Carter Museum, who was a naturalist that observed the harmful effects of mining on the environment. The Summit Historical Society has museums like the Dillon Schoolhouse Museum, an old school that has been kept in prime condition.

The Heritage Alliance also offers quite a few walking tours that range from downtown historical homes to paranormal activity hunts, and the Iowa Hill Gold Mine Hike is one of their historical hikes that is open year round. It’s always good to start at the Welcome Center in downtown Breckenridge to get up-to-date information and brochures on seasonal tours. For more history, see our Breckenridge History section.

Breckenridge: Arts & Culture

Breckenridge also has a vibrant arts & culture scene that continues to expand and grow. In 2014, Breckenridge Arts District was opened in downtown Breckenridge. The district features art studios, performance venues, art exhibits, art classes and workshops, and other fun events like yoga for people of all ages.

There is a scattering of art galleries in Breckenridge that feature local artists, including Breckenridge Gallery, which has been in business for over 30 years; Arts Alive Gallery, a co-op of local artists; and Blue River Art Gallery, which is one of the newer galleries to open in Breckenridge and is the brainchild of renowned local landscape artist Jerry Georgeff.

Breckenridge Backstage Theater was established in the 1970s and is the oldest year-round theater company to form on the Western slope. With huge local support, this theater has seen awards like the prestigious Colorado Theatre Guild Outstanding Regional Theatre Award in 2010, and in 2016, it opened up a newly expanded theater with a bar and lobby space.

Breckenridge: Food & Restaurants

If food and drink are your passion, then this little mountain town isn’t something to snub. Breckenridge, in fact, boasts the most awarded distillery to date in all of Colorado: Breckenridge Distillery. Founded in 2007, the distillery has won top awards in spirit competitions all over the country. Breckenridge Brewery is a successful craft brewery that rapidly expanded outside of Breckenridge after its conception in 1990 with several locations, and they were the first Colorado craft brewery to be bought out by Anheuser-Busch InBev. If supporting a die-hard local craft brewery is important to anyone, then Broken Compass Brewery, opened in 2014, is a solid locally crafted brew choice.

One notable bar to check out is The Absinth Bar. Absinth was a controversial drink in the Prohibition Era known as the “green fairy,” thought to bring on hallucinations and madness (it doesn’t), and this is truly a unique experience for anyone curious about trying it with authentic absinth fountains, glasses, and sugar cubes. Après Handcrafted Libations makes amazing craft cocktails, and the Rocky Mountain Underground is a spot where all the locals go and comes highly recommended; they have a rotating menu of craft beers and craft cocktails, so things are new every few months.

When walking down Main Street, Crepes a la Cart is an affordable little crepe place that is a huge favorite with locals and visitors alike. Piante Pizzeria is a great stop for pizza lovers, offering mouth wateringly delicious New York-inspired wood oven pizzas that are all plant-based. Cashews for cheese—who would’ve thought that could be so delicious?

Relish and The Hearthstone Restaurant are two higher end restaurants in town that are highly praised by people that splurge there, and Hearthstone has a great happy hour for those patrons who might not want to splurge on a fancy dinner. Both places have exceptional service. Breckenridge Distillery also opened a high-end restaurant called Breckenridge Distillery Restaurant at their main location in the beginning of 2017 and brought in a nationally recognized chef, Daniel O’Brien—who was once on Top Chef—making their mark on cuisine in the region.

While there are a plethora of other things that could be highlighted about the area, this is just a taste of everything Breckenridge can offer besides skiing. So the next time someone suggests Breckenridge—find a new adventure outside of the typical ski day for the winter.

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